Hi, I’m Gianluca.
I studied cultural anthropology, and I’ve always been fascinated by the different ways people live, move, and experience a place.
Rome is not only my city – it’s the environment I love observing, understanding, and sharing through these small stories.
Together with my wife Connie, we host travellers in our small hotel near the Vatican, where we enjoy meeting people from all over the world and exchanging perspectives – just as I do here in the blog.
If you ever feel like saying hello while exploring Rome, you’ll find us on our terrace as well, where every morning we serve breakfast with a view.
Gianluca
During the Christmas season, Rome transforms into a city of lights and traditions, with nativity scenes, or “presepi,” adorning churches, squares, and museums. These representations of the Nativity are a cherished Italian custom, reflecting deep religious significance and artistic expression.
The Tradition of Presepi in Italy
The tradition of creating presepi dates back to 1223 when Saint Francis of Assisi crafted the first live nativity scene in Greccio, near Rieti, to make the story of Jesus’s birth more accessible to the public. This practice quickly spread throughout Italy, with each region developing its unique style and interpretation. From the elaborate Baroque displays in Naples to the simple, rustic scenes in the Alps, presepi have become a symbol of Italian cultural heritage.
Must-See Presepi in Rome
Rome offers a rich tapestry of nativity scenes, each with its own history and charm. Here are some of the most notable ones to visit:
- St. Peter’s Square Presepe: Located at the heart of Vatican City, this nativity scene is unveiled annually on December 8th, the Feast of the Immaculate Conception. Each year, it features a different theme and design, often donated by various regions or countries, making it a centerpiece of Rome’s Christmas celebrations.
- 100 Presepi Exhibition: Traditionally held under the colonnade of St. Peter’s Square, this exhibition showcases over a hundred nativity scenes from around the world, highlighting diverse artistic styles and cultural interpretations of the Nativity. It’s a testament to the universal appeal of this tradition.
- Presepe dei Netturbini (Garbage Collectors’ Nativity): Situated on Via dei Cavalleggeri, this unique nativity scene was created in 1972 by the city’s sanitation workers. Built using recycled materials, it has grown over the years into an elaborate display, symbolizing devotion and creativity.
- Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore: Home to one of the oldest known presepi, this basilica houses a 13th-century nativity scene sculpted by Arnolfo di Cambio. This historic piece offers a glimpse into the medieval interpretation of the Nativity.
- Church of Saints Cosma and Damiano: Located near the Roman Forum, this church features a large Baroque nativity scene that remains on display year-round, allowing visitors to appreciate its intricate details regardless of the season.
Experiencing the Presepi Tradition
Visiting these nativity scenes provides insight into Italy’s rich cultural and religious heritage. Each presepe tells a story, not only of the Nativity but also of the community that created it, reflecting local traditions, materials, and artistic styles.
As you explore Rome during the Christmas season, take the time to visit these presepi. They offer a unique perspective on the city’s festive spirit and provide a deeper understanding of a tradition that has been cherished for centuries.