Hi, I’m Gianluca.
I studied cultural anthropology, and I’ve always been fascinated by the different ways people live, move, and experience a place.
Rome is not only my city – it’s the environment I love observing, understanding, and sharing through these small stories.
Together with my wife Connie, we host travellers in our small hotel near the Vatican, where we enjoy meeting people from all over the world and exchanging perspectives – just as I do here in the blog.
If you ever feel like saying hello while exploring Rome, you’ll find us on our terrace as well, where every morning we serve breakfast with a view.
Gianluca
Travel has always fascinated humanity, and in ancient Rome, journeys were often as symbolic as they were practical. One of the most famous literary accounts of travel in antiquity is Horace’s satirical poem “Journey to Brindisi” (Sermones, I.5). This witty and insightful work offers not just a travel diary but a portrait of Italy and its diverse peoples, highlighting the cultural differences encountered along the way. Let’s dive into Horace’s memorable road trip and see how it resonates with today’s travelers—especially those who may want to explore the same route from Rome down the Appian Way (Via Appia) to Southern Italy.
The Poem: A Satirical Journey
Horace’s “Journey to Brindisi” recounts an actual diplomatic trip he undertook in 37 BCE as part of a mission led by the statesman Maecenas to broker peace between Octavian and Mark Antony. However, instead of dwelling on the political gravity of the journey, Horace transforms the trip into a lighthearted and humorous narrative filled with mishaps, eccentric characters, and reflections on travel itself.
Travel in Ancient Rome: The Appian Way as a Lifeline
The journey began in Rome and followed the famed Via Appia, also known as the Regina Viarum (Queen of Roads). Built in 312 BCE, the Appian Way connected Rome to Brindisi, a crucial port city for travel to Greece and the East. This well-paved road was lined with milestones, inns, and cisterns, facilitating long journeys. However, as Horace humorously illustrates, even a well-maintained Roman road couldn’t protect travelers from discomfort.
The poem opens with an amusing description of the bumpy ride in a clumsy cart, the questionable accommodations at roadside inns, and the slow travel pace. Yet Horace’s witty complaints also provide a vivid picture of the road’s significance and the diverse landscapes and cultures encountered along the way.
Horace’s Geographical and Cultural Observations
Horace’s travelogue doesn’t shy away from making sharp observations about the various regions and their inhabitants:
- From Rome to Terracina
The journey’s early stretch—still easily replicable today—passes through areas such as Aricia (modern Ariccia) and Tres Tabernae (in the modern Pontine Marshes). Horace humorously mentions the slow-going marshes and the dubious lodgings that would test the patience of any traveler.- Modern Connection: Today, this scenic section of the Appian Way can be explored by car or even by bicycle. In just over an hour’s drive from QuodLibet Bed and Breakfast, visitors can enjoy ancient towns like Terracina, with its stunning Temple of Jupiter Anxur overlooking the sea.
- Campania and its Coastal Beauty
As Horace and his companions pass through Capua and Benevento, he contrasts the natural beauty of the regions with the inconveniences of travel: poor food, noisy inns, and dubious drinking water.- Fun Fact: Horace also comments on the local dialects and customs, often with a touch of gentle mockery, illustrating how Roman provinces each had their own unique characteristics.
- The Final Stretch to Brindisi
By the time they reach Brindisi, Horace’s poem captures the weariness of long-distance travel but also a sense of accomplishment at having traversed the Italian peninsula—a feat not unlike modern travelers completing an epic road trip.
Recreating the Journey Today: Rome to Terracina on the Via Appia
For today’s explorers, the first section of Horace’s journey—from Rome to Terracina—is an achievable and rewarding day trip. Here’s what you can see along the way:
- Ariccia: Famous for its delicious porchetta and historic bridge.
- Ninfa Gardens: A romantic oasis known for its medieval ruins and lush flora (slightly off the Appian Way).
- Terracina: A seaside town where visitors can explore Roman ruins, including the Temple of Jupiter Anxur, and enjoy breathtaking coastal views.
Driving this route takes just over an hour from QuodLibet, making it an ideal excursion for guests who want to experience the beauty of Lazio’s southern countryside.
The Symbolism of Travel in Horace’s Time
Horace’s satire is more than a humorous account of bumpy roads and quirky travel companions—it reflects the social and cultural fabric of the Roman world. In ancient Rome, travel symbolized power, diplomacy, and exploration. The Appian Way itself was a representation of Rome’s engineering prowess and its ability to unite distant regions.
Yet Horace also reminds us that travel, even with all its challenges, can be enlightening and rewarding. The diverse landscapes, towns, and people encountered along the way create an unforgettable tapestry of experiences.
Plan Your Modern Roman Adventure
For travelers staying at QuodLibet Bed and Breakfast, retracing part of Horace’s journey is an excellent way to immerse yourself in Italy’s ancient history. You can begin your exploration right from our location near the Vatican, where the Appian Way is easily accessible by car or public transportation.
Whether you’re embarking on a day trip to Terracina or imagining the poet’s experiences as you walk along the ancient Roman stones, you’ll gain a deeper appreciation for Italy’s incredible past and its enduring stories.
